Day 19: Sust to Gilgit

Sust, Khaiber, Passu (2,543 meters), Karimabad Aliabad, Jaglotgah, Sankhar, Dainyor, Gilgit.

12th July 2000


The feeling of having been to the Kunjerab top actually sunk in the next morning when waiting for tea at the front lounge of the PTDC entrance I meet an American who had accompanied a party of trekkers. Their party had gone to the Baturo glacier for a few days and this gentleman was responsible for organizing the trip. He was an interesting old man who was wearing a Chinese hat and supporting a French beard, an old veteran who had first come to the north of Pakistan as long ago as 1967. He loved the mountains and the people, he said, he had trekked all over the north of Pakistan and now arranged trips for foreigners.

The feeling of having been to the top for the second time was unique, it had been a totally different experience compared to the previous trip. Susan had had to drive us down as I had suffered from altitude sickness, this time I was well prepared and it paid dividends when that splitting headache did not appear that I had been dreading.

By eleven the party was ready to leave for Gilgit and we headed back on the KKH for Hunza, half of the journey was over, we were now on our return journey, heading back towards Karachi. The first stop was at Karimabad were we all had tea at the Caf´┐Ż de Hunza. I had ordered the Murgh-e-zarren feathers and they were ready, the hat and the feathers really looked nice, I wore the hat all the way back to Gilgit. It was a bright and sunny day and the drive back was pleasant. The sight of the Baturo Glacier as it appears to the right and travels up the valley to the snow capped mountains, the crystal clear water gushing down the numerous streams that cross the road on the way and the water fall which splashes onto the road just after Gulmit are some of the enthralling sights that mesmerize you.

We drove into Gilgit by late evening, and after showers and freshening up we ordered food at the Tikka place in town. It was the same old restaurant in the middle of the bazaar we had visited earlier. The proprietor recognized us, and he had the table set out to our liking under the old tree in the yard. The food was as good as it had been the time before and everyone enjoyed the meal. We drove back to the hotel after ice-cream at the local shop and retired for the night.

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